If your laminate floors have seen better days, you’re not alone. Over time, everyday wear and tear, water damage, or simply a change in style can leave homeowners itching for something new underfoot. Removing laminate might sound like a back-breaking task reserved for contractors, but here’s the good news: with the right tools, some patience, and a step-by-step plan, it’s absolutely a DIY project you can tackle.
Laminate flooring is popular for its affordability and easy installation, but when it’s time to take it up, many homeowners are surprised at how manageable the process can be. Whether you’re upgrading to hardwood, refreshing your space with tile, or even laying down a new laminate, understanding how to safely remove the old flooring is the first step to a smooth remodel.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through the entire process of DIY laminate flooring removal—from prepping the room and gathering tools to lifting planks and cleaning up afterward. By the end, you’ll know how to do it efficiently, avoid common pitfalls, and get your space ready for its next flooring chapter. And if at any point you decide DIY isn’t your cup of tea, you’ll also know when it’s wise to call in a professional to save time and hassle.
Before you start prying up boards, it helps to know what you’re working with. Laminate flooring isn’t nailed or glued down like traditional hardwood; it’s a floating floor system that sits on top of an underlayment. Each board locks into the next with a tongue-and-groove or click-lock mechanism, which makes installation quick—and removal much less intimidating than many homeowners expect.
That said, not all laminate floors are installed the same way. Some older laminates may have been glued at the seams, which makes removal trickier and more time-consuming. Floating floors, on the other hand, can often be lifted with a simple angle-and-pull motion once the first board is free.
Another factor to consider is the condition of the laminate. If the boards are warped from moisture, swollen at the edges, or separating at the joints, they may not come up cleanly. You’ll want to be prepared for a bit of splintering or breakage along the way.
Finally, keep in mind that laminate is almost always installed over a layer of underlayment—a thin foam or felt material that cushions the boards and helps with sound absorption. This will need to be removed as well, so you can inspect the subfloor beneath and prepare it for your next flooring choice.
By knowing whether you’re dealing with a click-lock floating floor or glued seams, and by anticipating the underlayment beneath, you’ll have a clear picture of what lies ahead—making the entire removal process smoother and less stressful.
James said”Like any DIY project, having the right tools on hand can make laminate flooring removal much smoother. The good news? Most of the essentials are inexpensive and easy to find at your local hardware store—or you may already have them in your garage. Here’s what you’ll want to gather before getting started”
Pro tip: If you don’t want to buy everything outright, many home improvement stores like Home Depot or Lowe’s offer tool rentals, which can save you a bundle if you’re only tackling laminate removal once.
Before you start ripping up planks, you’ll want to set the stage properly. A well-prepared workspace saves you from headaches, protects your home from damage, and keeps the project running efficiently. Think of it like stretching before a workout—you don’t want to skip it.
Begin by removing all furniture, rugs, and decorative items from the room. The last thing you want is tripping over a coffee table with a pry bar in your hand. If large items are too heavy to move, push them to another area of the house or consider using furniture sliders to get them out of the way.
Laminate flooring removal can create a surprising amount of dust. Turn off your HVAC system to prevent debris from circulating through vents. Use plastic sheeting and painter’s tape to seal doorways, especially if other parts of your home are occupied during the project.
When prying up baseboards or planks, it’s easy to scuff walls or chip paint. Slide a thin piece of cardboard or scrap wood between your pry bar and the wall to avoid damage. For doorways and trim, cover edges with painter’s tape for an extra layer of protection.
Before diving in, look around the edges of the laminate for signs of water damage—swollen boards, discoloration, or musty smells. If you suspect mold under the planks, wear a proper respirator and plan on a deeper clean once the floor is removed.
Lay out your pry bar, hammer, pliers, and utility knife so you’re not scrambling mid-job. Keep a shop vacuum nearby for quick cleanups as you go.
By prepping the room thoroughly, you’re setting yourself up for a smoother removal. You’ll spend less time fixing mistakes and more time making progress—which means you’ll be ready for your new flooring faster.
Removing laminate may look intimidating at first, but once you understand the sequence, it’s a straightforward process. The key is to take your time, work methodically, and keep the subfloor beneath intact. Here’s a breakdown of each step:
Start by gently prying off the baseboards and quarter-round trim around the perimeter of the room. Slide a utility knife along the caulk line to prevent paint from peeling, then use a pry bar and hammer to loosen the boards. If you plan to reuse the trim, label each piece and store it safely to make reinstallation easier.
The easiest place to begin is usually along a wall or near a doorway with a transition strip. Remove the transition strips first, as they secure the edges of the laminate and connect rooms with different flooring. Once those are out of the way, you’ll have space to lift the first row of planks.
Pro tip: Don’t yank or twist boards aggressively—it increases the chance of damaging the subfloor beneath.
Once the laminate planks are out, you’ll see a thin foam, felt, or vapor barrier underlayment. Roll or pull it up carefully. If it’s stapled down, use pliers to remove staples. If it’s glued, scrape it off with a floor scraper. Dispose of the underlayment separately—it typically can’t be reused.
In some areas, boards may be swollen from water damage or stuck with adhesive. For these, cut the plank into smaller sections with a utility knife or circular saw (set to shallow depth) before prying it out. This reduces strain on the subfloor and makes disposal easier.
As you clear each row, vacuum debris and stack planks neatly in one corner or bag them for disposal. Keeping the area clean prevents accidents and gives you a better view of the subfloor as it’s revealed.
Once the laminate planks and underlayment are out of the way, you’ll usually find a battlefield of small nails, staples, or sticky adhesive clinging to the subfloor. Removing these properly ensures your new flooring has a smooth, stable base to sit on.
In some installations, underlayment or planks may have been glued. Adhesive can be tough to remove, but a few strategies make the job easier:
Sometimes old installers used nails or screws to fix squeaky subfloors before laying laminate. If you spot them, back them out completely rather than hammering them down flat—it prevents bumps under your new flooring.
Your goal here is to leave the subfloor clean, flat, and hazard-free. Any leftover staples, nails, or hardened glue can cause unevenness and even damage new flooring over time. Spending a little extra time on this step will save you from big headaches down the road.
With the laminate planks, underlayment, and stray fasteners gone, your subfloor is finally exposed. This is your chance to give it a thorough cleaning and check for issues that could affect your new flooring installation.
Start by sweeping away larger debris, then follow up with a shop vacuum to pull out fine dust and any leftover staples or nails you may have missed. Pay close attention to corners, where dirt and particles tend to gather. A clean surface isn’t just cosmetic—it’s essential for ensuring the next layer of flooring sits flat and secure.
Inspect the subfloor for common issues:
Run a straightedge or level across different parts of the subfloor. High spots can cause your new flooring to sit unevenly, while low spots can lead to gaps or squeaks. Use a floor patch compound to fill dips and sand down raised areas for a smooth, level finish.
If you notice squeaks when walking across the subfloor, now’s the time to fix them. Drive screws into the joists beneath the squeaky area to secure the panels more tightly. It’s much easier to silence a squeaky floor before laying down new material.
If you’re planning to install laminate, vinyl, or hardwood over the subfloor, use a moisture meter to ensure levels are within manufacturer recommendations. Too much moisture can lead to future buckling or warping.
By the end of this stage, your subfloor should be clean, dry, level, and solid—a perfect blank canvas ready for whatever flooring upgrade you have in mind. Skipping or rushing this step is like painting without primer: you’ll get results, but they won’t last as long.
Once the laminate flooring is pulled up and hauled away, you’re left with the all-important final step—cleanup. This is where your hard work pays off, because a tidy, well-prepared space is the perfect canvas for whatever flooring project comes next.
1. Sweep and Vacuum Thoroughly
The first order of business is clearing all the debris. Start with a push broom to collect larger chunks of underlayment, splinters, or adhesive residue. Then, follow up with a shop vacuum to pull up smaller dust particles, especially around corners and edges where dirt tends to settle. This step ensures the surface is free of hidden grit that could interfere with new flooring installation.
2. Scrape and Remove Residue
Laminate flooring doesn’t usually leave behind glue, but if you had underlayment glued down or transition strips secured with adhesive, you’ll want to scrape these areas clean. A floor scraper or putty knife works well for stubborn spots. For really tough residue, applying a bit of warm water or an adhesive remover can loosen it up.
3. Inspect and Repair the Subfloor
With everything swept away, take the time to carefully inspect the subfloor. Look for cracks, water damage, loose nails, or uneven patches. A squeaky subfloor, for example, often means loose nails—hammer them back into place or replace them with screws. If you notice dips or high spots, now is the time to level the surface.
4. Dispose of Waste Responsibly
All the laminate planks, underlayment, and debris need to go somewhere. Check your local waste disposal guidelines—many recycling centers accept laminate planks, especially if they’re not heavily glued. If recycling isn’t an option, bag the waste properly so it’s easy to haul away without creating dust or mess.
5. Final Prep for Next Flooring
Once the cleanup is complete, you’ll have a clear, solid subfloor ready for new flooring—whether that’s fresh laminate, tile, vinyl, or hardwood. A smooth, dust-free base makes all the difference in the longevity of your new installation.
When it comes to removing laminate flooring, one of the biggest decisions you’ll face is whether to roll up your sleeves and do it yourself or call in a professional. Both approaches have their perks and pitfalls, and the right choice often depends on your time, budget, and comfort level with tools.
DIY Laminate Removal
Tackling the job yourself can save a decent chunk of money. With the right tools—like pry bars, hammers, and a utility knife—you can usually remove laminate flooring without too much trouble. For smaller spaces, like bedrooms or hallways, a DIY approach is manageable and gives you the satisfaction of hands-on work. Plus, you control the pace and can fit the job into your schedule.
On the flip side, DIY removal can be time-consuming, especially if you’re dealing with a large area or tricky installations like glued-down underlayment or stubborn transition strips. There’s also the risk of damaging the subfloor if you’re not careful, which could mean extra repairs before new flooring can go down.
Hiring a Professional
Bringing in a pro takes the heavy lifting and guesswork out of the equation. Professionals have the right tools, experience, and efficiency to get the job done quickly—often in a single day for an average-sized room. They’re also less likely to cause subfloor damage, and many offer cleanup and disposal as part of their service. James from Flooring Contractors San Diego might be helpful for the job.
The main drawback, of course, is cost. Hiring a flooring contractor for removal typically runs between $1.50 and $3.50 per square foot depending on your location and the complexity of the job. For larger projects, that can add up quickly. However, for homeowners with busy schedules, physical limitations, or multiple rooms to clear, the convenience can be worth every penny.
Which Should You Choose?
If you’re handy, have the time, and want to save money, DIY removal is a solid option. But if speed, convenience, or avoiding mistakes is more important, hiring a professional might be the best route. Think of it this way: DIY saves dollars, while pros save hours—and sometimes headaches.
